Wood Carving with Victorinox

While on a train checking Facebook on my phone when I saw on the Victorinox page a wood carving event with John Hollerbach at the London flagship store, I was straight on the phone to book a place for me and my wife. The cost of the event was £10 and included a Victorinox goody bag, I was sold at wood carving event in London.

On the day of the event I was at the store 30 minutes early, luckily there is a nice display of Swiss Army Knives in the window to keep me occupied which helped the time fly by. When the store opened up we were welcomed warmly by the staff and invited to explore the store. I liked the artwork around the stair case, a 3 story high arrangement of Spartan model knives. There was also some nice schematic drawings of the original knife around the place, if they were for sale I would consider purchasing one.

Spartan Wall

We browsed around the Victorinox products on display, in particular I liked the fragrances section. I have had samples of some of the fragrances in the past and I am rather fond of Forest, the smell reminds me of being in the woods.

Finally we reached the basement where the event was taking place and also where the range of knives is located, I have had Victorinox in my bag for the past 10 years and to see the entire range displayed on the wall was an amazing sight. I even think I have my next 3 knives picked out, each one for a particular purpose.

It was then time for the workshop to begin and we took our seats, Pedro the store manager introduced himself and John to the group. We were then given our goody bags, which included:

  • A disclaimer form to sign
  • A Waiter model Swiss Army knife
  • Victorinox pen
  • Swiss Chocolate
  • Fragrance Sample
  • 1 Month VIP card
  • Victorinox watch  catalogue
  • Victorinox notepad
  • Safety glove (which we needed to return after the event)

Goody bags

Disclaimer forms signed and knives ready we were given a piece of wood to practise on while John demonstrated a few different cuts that we would be using, we were then given a piece of Jelutong each which had the bowl of the spoon already carved out. Taking inspiration from the wall of Spartan Knives I took my pencil and drew out a simple spoon design with a Victorinox logo at the end of the handle.

Spoon at the end

The time flew by carving, helping my wife and watching the spoons come to life. All too soon we reached the end of the session and only one plaster was required. We were then taken to the engraving machine to have our knives personalised, I had my name and a smiley face put on mine while my wife put the date on hers.

Engraved knife

My wife enjoyed herself more than she expected to and even with some experience of wood carving with the Scouts I found the event very enjoyable as well as being very informative, I would highly recommend attending in the future if more wood carving events are arranged.

I will be heading back to the store to assemble my own Spartan knife in the future.

Posted in Cutting Tools, Products, Projects | Leave a comment

Best in Bushcraft Awards 2013

Friends and listeners of the Urban Bushcraft Podcast can you spare a minute of your time to vote for us in the Best in Bushcraft Awards 2013?

If you have enjoyed listening to the show could you vote for it in the Best Bushcraft Online Content Category of the Best in Bushcraft Awards 2013.

Perhaps you enjoyed our interview with Paul Kirtley or our when we put Ben Orford in front of the mic?

Maybe you like to relive The Bushcraft Show 2013 and listen to Daniel from the Oloip Massai dance troop or JP talking about kilts?

This kind of recognition is very valuable to us as we are the only UK Bushcraft Podcast and if you vote there is also the chance to win a place on a bushcraft course and £250 worth of outdoor gear.

https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/bestinbushcraft2013

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Putting together a realistic survival kit and ‘grab bag’

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It is my firm belief that the forward thinking outdoors person should always strive to develop his or her knowledge and improvisational abilities before relying on a survival kit. However, as any boy scout worth his salt will tell you we should always be prepared when heading off the beaten track. Carrying an ‘off the shelf’ survival kit of some sort will tick that preparedness box and the classic survival tin comes up trumps as a very small, lightweight and unobtrusive option. However, the user must still have specialized training in order to use it effectively to improvise shelter, create warmth by lighting a fire, turn the little hooks and line into a fish supper and so on. As an emergency pocket kit in an environment where shelter building materials, water and fire wood are available the tin comes into it’s own but surrounded by natural resources, the properly prepared survivor should already feel confident that their knowledge, training and experience could compensate for many of the items in the tin (although a good knife and cooking pot would be handy…). For adventurous types planning to head out into the wilderness it makes a lot of sense to spend time contemplating what situation they’re most likely to have to survive in the first place! I base my survival kit around the conditions found in the wilder, more remote parts of the UK and similar environments, where one or more nights on an exposed hill side, possibly injured, possibly lost with limited available materials for fire lighting and shelter construction are potentially lethal and fairly commonplace. I also base it on some sound advice from Mors Kochanski, that the wise outdoors person should always carry enough equipment and clothing to sit out a storm or potential survival situation in relative comfort until rescued or can rescue themselves. Relative comfort! Those are two words most people wouldn’t expect to hear in conjunction with an article about survival kits! It’s a lot to ask from such a small package but the makings of a good kit should include…

  • Effective and immediate protection from the elements
  • A method of providing external warmth and/or maximizing body-heat retention
  • Equipment to call in rescue or alert potential rescuers
  • Equipment to gather and sterilize water
  • Equipment to repair kit or improvise using locally found materials
  • Direction finding equipment
  • Some basic first aid kit
  • An emergency ration

Now, this is an article I’ve written before a few years back but circumstances, knowledge and kit are always changing so the contents of my own survival kit have recently been updated slightly. The superb team at Alpkit sent me a few bits and bobs, some of which I already use as part of my standard kit and some which I hadn’t had the chance to use yet. You’ll see some of them listed here. As stated previously, my kit is based on reality and also ease of use. Rather than being something I squirrel away on the off chance I’ll fall out of a plane and land in the Amazonian jungle, my survival kit has many items in that are used more regularly. They are just arranged in a way that will (hopefully) ensure I have the most important bits with me when it matters. It’s a two stage system; stage one features a small but comprehensive bag of ‘bits and bobs’ easily plucked from my main rucksack and easily carried on my person in a situation where I might not want to carry my main pack or might not be able to (travelling cross country in a vehicle, crossing a river or mucking about in a canoe). It is designed to provide everything needed for survival in an unexpected situation on it’s own but also form the foundations of any outdoor kit list, no matter how big or small, providing a sensible bridge between the tiny pocket kit and a full complement of gear. Stage two is a ‘grab bag’ which is larger but allows for greater scope, even to the extent of it being a ‘grab and go’ lightweight daysack for micro adventures. It covers most emergency eventualities and even holds a few luxuries for day-to-day use. Both the ‘bits and bobs’ bag and the ‘grab bag’ can be carried at the top of a main pack (all your essential kit in one neat package) or as a standalone emergency/unexpected hike into the hills lightweight kit kept in the car. In the winter, I’ll often swap the Nalgene bottle for a stainless steel flask of hot chocolate and carry the grab bag as my lightweight running pack when heading off the beaten track. So, the stage one ‘bits and bobs’ bag…..

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I use an Alpkit ‘airlok xtra’ 3 litre stuff sack. These are tough little roll top dry bags with well thought out fixing points for lashing them to your pack, mountain bike etc. They come with a handy webbing strap but I like to use 550 paracord, doubled over instead. This makes a fine ‘baldric’ style across the body carry strap but can also be taken off and used for spare boot laces, shelter building or any number of strong cordage related tasks (I once witnessed a couple of crazy Para’s abseiling out of a window on a doubled over length, although I strongly recommend you don’t do this…). The airlock range also come in red, which makes a first-rate first aid kit bag. Being fairly heavy-duty means that they float pretty well if accidentally dropped in the water (sealed obviously) but are also great as an emergency water carrier with just under 3 litres capacity! All the following items fit inside this bag…

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1.  Alpkit ‘Mytimug’, a titanium mug complete with lid. A lot of the smaller items fit inside this incredibly lightweight but strong boiling vessel. A metal mug rates highly among my survival items – through personal experimentation I’ve found that it’s one of the few items you’ll struggle to improvise effectively from nature…but so important for sterilizing water and cooking food.

2.  A good headtorch (this one’s an Alpkit ‘manta’) with spare batteries. Carry another in your main pack and treat this one as back up. When you’re out in the hills and your main torch batteries die, you’ll want to be able to do a straight swap for another good quality lighting system rather than fiddle about changing batteries in the cold darkness!

3.  Heliograph signal mirror.

4.  ‘Mylar’ reflective survival blanket. Extremely small and lightweight but will offer protection from the elements while maximizing retention of your radiated body heat too.

5.  Lightweight orange plastic survival bag by BCB. Provides additional protection as a bivi bag, can be slit open and made into a shelter sheet or even weighted down with rocks as a highly visible marker panel for rescue aircraft.

6.  Mesh, insect proof headnet. Additionally useful as a ‘shopping bag’ for foraged food, catching fish, melting snow, bank robbers disguise.

7.  Small tin of highly effective insect repellent (this one is by Nordic Summer). This is one of those items that can’t really be classed as a survival item but you’ll be glad of it once you’re out in the woods.

8.  A good quality multi tool. Several cutting options with a mini tool kit attached and the pliers are a real bonus too. Not meant to be a work horse but handy for light use or in an emergency.

9.  Pocket sharpening system. Again, not essential for survival but it’s tiny, weighs virtually nothing and handy to have if you use sharp cutting tools a lot. This one is a Fallkniven DC4.

10.  Fire lighting kit:  Swedish ‘scout’ fire steel, lifeboat matches, some fat wood (highly resinous pine) and waxed tinder card. Fire steels give a huge shower of hot sparks, are virtually ever lasting, work even when wet and can be used in a gloved fist if dexterity is beginning to go in cold conditions. Can also be used to signal for a long way on a dark hill-side. I also pack a candle – will make a snow cave feel like ‘home’ and raise the temperature a couple of degrees too.

11.  A small but proper Silva compass plus a good quality whistle for alerting rescuers. The internationally recognized distress signal is six whistle blasts in quick succession followed by a minute’s silence to listen for a response. Even after a response keep whistling until found!

12.  Power bars as a high energy emergency ration.

13.  Water purification tablets and a large transparent plastic bag. The bag can be used to collect rain water and as a transpiration bag for collecting evaporating water from non-poisonous foliage. I also include several paper coffee filters as a lightweight filtering system.

14.  Trapping and fishing kit:  Several brass wire rabbit snares (pre-dulled) and some strong line, small hooks and lead weights. It’s unlikely you’ll need to use these items but you never know…and they’re incredibly useful for making running repairs on your gear.

15.  Repair kit:  More 550 paracord, some incredibly thin but strong ‘comms’ cord and a small roll of gaffa tape. Gaffa tape mends waterproof clothing, holds kit together, straps up a twisted ankle. Nuff said! Assorted needles and strong thread are also included but more for clothing repairs than ‘Rambo’ style surgery…hopefully.

16.  Very basic pocket first aid kit – purple Nitrile gloves (for dealing with other group members), a wound irrigation wash, tweezers and tick remover, assorted plasters, antiseptic wipes, steri strips, safety pins, asprin and a small field dressing for larger wounds. I’ve also included a small packet of ‘Celox’ a haemostatic clotting agent for serious bleeding.

A small but perfectly formed first aid kit

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(above) The kit packed up ready to be stowed away. Key items that are most likely to be needed first are kept separate and near the top, easy to locate. The black cordura belt pouch holds the multi tool and sharpening stone. The unpacked kit as it is shown here could all be either worn as separate items on a belt or carried in the pockets of a jacket leaving the airlock bag to be used as a 3 litre water carrier.

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(above) The kit packed and ready for business, shown next to a mobile phone for scale. Love them or loathe them, you would have to be barmy in this day and age to head off into the wilderness without a fully charged mobile phone! Stage two, the grab bag: Many bushcraft or military style rucksacks feature removable side pouches with straps that can be used as a grab bag but I like to carry something made for the job. The excellent Alpkit ‘Gourdon’ dry bag day sacks are ideal. Lightweight, waterproof and fitted with comfy straps, mesh pockets and a shockcord stowage system – this is a LOT of daysack for the cash! I also like to carry it in the main compartment of my rucksack, near the top as I find this better for weight distribution, especially if my main pack isn’t loaded up for a long trip. The grab bag has my ‘bits and bobs, survival kit forming the foundations of the pack, which has most eventualities covered. With the addition of some very lightweight but completely useable items of kit, an unplanned night on the hill would only cause minor embarrassment rather than hypothermia.

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1. ‘Bits and bobs, survival kit.

2. Alpkit ‘Gourdon’ 20 litre waterproof day sack (they also do a 25 litre version and several other, brighter colours for outdoor folk who want to be seen). The back system is simple but even so, features a removable pad for using as insulation between your bum and the cold ground.

3.The fantastic ‘Blizzard Bag’ a vacuum packed survival bag with a warmth rating of a medium weight sleeping bag!

4. Fully charged mobile phone in a waterproof pouch – I normally carry mine in one of the mesh pockets, tethered to the pack.

5. Extremely warm, hooded jacket. This one is the Alpkit Filo jacket with supreme goose down fill. It squashes down incredibly small and weighs next to nothing. I keep a thin merino wool hat and windproof fleece gloves in the pockets.

6. Nalgene bottle with additional Mytimug fitting snugly on the outside giving additional cookability or just a more readily accessible mug for brews.

7. A lightweight, breathable bivi bag for total weather protection out in the open. This one is (you guessed it..) the Alpkit ‘Hunka‘ which squashes down into it’s own mesh pocket (as shown). An alternative for forest environments might be a lightweight tarp such as the rig 7, or even a lightweight waterproof poncho with attached guy lines for more versatility.

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Alpkit ‘Hunka’ and ‘Filo’ jacket

8. Brew kit, high energy snacks, food for the day, spoon. I also carry a small pack of solid fuel tablets in here with a folding burner and flexible foil windshield for environments where lighting a fire might not be possible.

9. Belt knife and folding saw, for bushcraftin’.

10. Warm hat made from an old wool jumper! It doesn’t all have to be hi-tech…

The above list is assuming that a waterproof jacket is already being worn and a waterproofed map and user compass, carried. Both the waterproof jacket and map case could easily be lashed to the outside of the lightweight pack if needs be, by using the attached shockcord system and mesh pockets.

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The grab bag packed and ready to go

Hopefully this article will be of use to you – I’m sure anyone who heads out into the wilds regularly will already have most, if not all of this kit. All I offer here are some tried and tested items of lightweight kit that I use and a packing system that ensures you have key, essential items with you when you need them. Happy wandering!

Joe’s book ‘The Wilderness Survival Guide’ is available on Amazon and other well-known book shops and fits nicely in your average Christmas stocking. Courses are also available in Wiltshire covering everything from foraging and fire lighting to making buckskin clothing and flint tools. Please visit www.wilderness-survival.co.uk

Posted in Joe O'Leary | Leave a comment

Podcast Episode 13

Becoming at one with nature.

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Road Trip! For the 4th show in a row we travel off to do some recording, this time heading to Sussex to meet Roger and his motley crew from @1 with Nature. Where we discuss all manner of outdoor nonsense, Adrian Rose from North West Bushcraft shares a wild food recipe and we announce the winner of the Ben Orford tshirt from episode 10.

At_One_With_Nature

Links:
At One With Nature
North West Bushcraft
Hawberry Sweet Pepper Sauce Recipe
Ben Orford

Download via iTunes OR Via our Feed

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How to tell the Time using the Stars

The winter sky provides a fantastic opportunity to develop, practice and perfect those emergency survival skills that are based on basic astronomy. One such piece of knowledge worth learning about is how to tell the time using the stars. Perhaps not the most urgent of survival skills to possess, it is interesting to learn and great to teach younger bushcrafters!

YOU WILL NEED:

  • A relatively cloud free sky
  • Ability to locate The Plough and Polaris
  • Simple arithmetic

The stars have been used for thousands of years as an aid to navigation and just about every man and his dog can use the pointer stars, Dubhe and Merak, of The Plough to find Polaris, aka the Pole Star or North Star. Without going in to great detail about this:
imagine a line running from Merak to Dubhe and then continue that line for roughly five times the distance between the ‘pointers’ until you reach Polaris (see fig 1).

how_to_tell_the_time_using_the_stars_fig1

By following another imaginary line from Polaris straight down to earth we can identify the direction from us to that point, and beyond, as north. However, these very same stars can be used to help tell the time too! Although most people may have a watch or a mobile phone to accurately determine which time of the day or night it is, it is just as easy for someone to carry a compass or matches or a tent or a camp bed etc to help make a stay in the wilds more comfortable. Yet we as survivalists or bushcrafters want to go beyond that and be able to cope relying on a meld of knowledge, observation and whatever we can find around us.

From a scouting perspective, this is a skill that my Senior Scouts have to learn and be tested in as part of achieving the Astronomer badge. To that end, with the benefit of a relatively cloud free sky we can easily tell the time. Unfortunately this is not a requirement in most youth organisations so the technique is becoming a dying art!

There are all sorts of weird and wonderful ways to do this. Some methods involve an imaginary 24 hour clock face centred on Polaris but running anticlockwise; another way involves an imaginary straight line running from Megrez, in The Plough, through Polaris and on to Caph in Cassiopeia. Perhaps these methods are easier to get to grips with than others for certain individuals but, in general, the more complex or peculiar a method, the more likely it is that mistakes will be made. Trying to visualise a backwards 24 hour clock face is likely to be more confusing than a 12 hour clock face running clockwise as we have been brought up to accept reading in a clockwise direction when telling the time. Having many, many years experience of instructing in the Army combined with my professional role as a teacher and my voluntary role as Senior Scout Master I find it best to remind myself of the mnemonic KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) when passing on information and practical skills to others.

Learners need to get things clear in their heads to allow them to learn more effectively. Furthermore, not everyone knows the names or positions of the various stars so may have problems locating Megrez or Caph. Having been an instructor for many years in the army and currently working as a school teacher and a scout leader I prefer to use the simplest effective method to help people achieve the learning objective. The method I prefer to use to initially instruct others requires no prior knowledge and no need to identify specific stars in specific constellations. All that is required is that Polaris and The Plough are visible.

SO HOW DO WE DO IT?

The first step is to identify Polaris: the Pole Star and imagine that this is the centre of an analogue clock face (see fig 2).

how_to_tell_the_time_using_the_stars_fig2

Secondly, use the pointer stars of The Plough as if they were the hour hand of the clock and  read off the time (see fig 3). Do not simply read the hour but be as accurate as you can possibly be eg quarter past, half past etc. The more accurate you are the better. To assist accuracy you could draw a clock face on to acetate or a transparent sheet! Using fig 3 as an example the time shows approximately 6.45 which we will convert to the value 6¾.

how_to_tell_the_time_using_the_stars_fig3

Next we must apply a little bit of basic arithmetic. To do this we must calculate how many months after March 7th it is e.g. on November 7th it would be 8 months after; on December 22nd it would be 9½ months after. Again be accurate, at least to quarters or halves. This value must be added to the ‘time’ you read using the pointer stars. For example, if the time you read was 6.45 (ie 6¾) and the date is November 20th (approximately 8½ months after March 7th) you would add these two values together i.e. 6¾. + 8½ = 15¼.

At this point we double the number, so in this example 15¼ would become 30½. Now this is fine if we are on Greenwich Mean Time (or any country’s time zone equivalent) but if we are using British Summer Time (or daylight saving) we must add 1 to our number to take that extra hour in to account. Since, as I write, GMT ensures that the dark nights are drawing in incredibly early I do not need to add anything on. But do not forget the point: add an hour on if it’s BST.

The final thing to do is to deduct the number we have calculated from 24 (or 48 if the calculated number is over 24). In this case we cannot deduct 30½ from 24 so we instead deduct from 48: 48 – 30½ = 17½ and 17½ in the 24 hour clock system is 5.30pm.

IN A NUTSHELL

  • Work out the clock face time
  • Add 1 on for each month after March 7th (including quarters etc)
  • Add the clock face time to the month addition figure
  • Double it
  • Add 1 if it is BST
  • Deduct the total from 24 or 48
  • Convert to a time using 24 hour clock method

We now have the theory but as many educational experts such as Kolb and Piaget – not that most of us need their expertise to confirm what we already know – have said that we learn most by doing. In other words: it would be most helpful, if to adorn one’s mind with the knowledge and expertise to enable one to deduce the time to a somewhat reliable level of accuracy, get the ‘dirt time’ in!

Posted in Navigation, Scouts | Leave a comment